Today, Monday will take me from the Portland camp to Marthasville and a stay in a "bunk house" after a 45 mile ride.
Last night was a restless night. There was a real shit hole tavern next to the campground and even though they closed at 9pm there was parking lot activity for a couple hours afterward. In addition, there was a man wandering all night yelling a name in desperation. And finally my stomach was pretty messed up from the tainted food I had gotten in Jefferson at the Sweet Smoke BBQ. I got up as soon as there was enough light to see outside.
I stowed my camping gear and thought I had better eat even with my continued belly problems. Before getting started I put on a light merino wool sweater to beat the cool damp morning. My standard trail breakfast has been oatmeal and coffee and that was today's menu as well.
In the image below you can see the simple cooking set-up I use for bicycle travel. It is made up of a Westwind folding pot stand, a Swedish Trangia alcohol burner, a Trangia fuel bottle with alcohol fuel, an Open Country (Mirro) 24oz billy pot with lid, a 16oz GSI X-Mug, a 20oz GSI nesting insulated-cup/bowl, titanium utensils, 28oz water bottles and a folding windscreen (not shown). Everything but the bottles and utensils nest inside the 5-1/2 diameter pot.
I have played with other stove types and settled on the Westwind/Trangia set-up for these trips because it is dead simple, reliable, silent and fuel is available everywhere. The fuel bottle is also made by Trangia and the spout is great for dispensing small quantities of fuel and it seals securely.
The billy pot is one I have used for over 30 years and with it's shape and lid I can bake with it as well as cook. It is an old friend.
The GSI cup is collapsible and also something I have used quite a bit. The GSI insulated cup/bowl set allows me to rehydrate dehydrated meals to heat them without doing so for the entire time needed on the stove, thereby saving fuel.
The titanium utensils are super light and tough as nails. I do also have an vintage household butter knife in the kit. It has a larger, flat, symmetrical, with a wide blade that is perfect for spreading peanut butter or Nutella (bicycle tourist essentials).
While cooking up breakfast I noticed the fellow that had been calling out a name all night. I walked over to check on him as my oatmeal hydrated. It seems that his blind and diabetic dog had become lost and he was searching her out. He was an old man with a long, full white beard who seemed to be alone in life except for the dog. I asked if he had a picture of his pup and a phone number. He did, and I promised to keep my eyes open for her. Poor guy.
It was quite foggy this morning and as I left the river had a dull but beautiful look as I headed east on the trail.
The ride east toward Marthasville started in a canopy of trees. As the sun began to burn through the fog the beams of light passing through were certainly calming to experience. I especially enjoyed the early miles today.
Later as I approached Dutzow MO the country opened up into river bottom prairie. Nice riding here too. Harvest season is in full swing. Corn combines are working fields. Trucks are hauling grain and elevators are busy. This area has been a bread basket for a long time and vacant, small, old elevators that use to ship grain on the Katy trains are everywhere.
Just after passing through Rhineland I noticed two hikers on the trail about a half mile ahead of me. Shortly, I caught up to them and as I passed I asked if they had time to talk about their journey. They did. We introduced ourselves and I gave them one of my retirement calling cards.
Kristen & Melissa had only been on trail two days. They had begun in Clinton and planned to do the entire trail in a week, just as I have. After their first day they realized that goal would be impossible for them. They hired a ride to the mid-point and were beginning their adventure again today. Great kids and they'll learn life lessons on this trip for sure. (As it would turn out I would see them again later today on my way out of Hermann.)
A while later I noticed two fellows with full touring rigs riding toward me from the east. As we came closer to each other I noticed the lead rider was wearing spandex riding gear (something I would never wear on tour). The second traveler was wearing a red & blue plaid button up shirt and cargo shorts (more my preference). His rig was sporting red Arkel panniers and as he got closer I thought to myself "that's Brian from the Biking Brian YouTube channel". Just as we were passing each other I shouted out "Hey Brian" and grabbed two hands full of brakes. It was in fact Brian and he was traveling with his dad.
I said who I was and he recognized my name from comments I have left on his channel (https://youtube.com/@bikingbrian?si=CxUqdO5R2xKImdwX ). The three of us chatted for about 15 minutes about the trail and our preferences in bike set-ups, gear and beer (which are very similar). I'd always wondered if I'd run into Brian due mainly to the fact that he lives just south of Wisconsin in northern Illinois. After a nice chat we went our separate ways.
I continued on to McKittrick and a decision about whether to go to Hermann. The village is a couple miles from the McKittrick Trailhead and a town with a strong influence from the Germans that settled the area a hundred years ago with a vibrant old down town area, German restaurants, breweries, brewpubs, wineries, and of interest to me, the Wurst Haus.
When I got to the McKittrick Trailhead I sat for a bit and thought about whether I had time for lunch is Hermann.
Hermann was on my hit list before the trip and even though I had a 40+ mile day going today I decided to stop there for lunch.
I had to back track about a quarter mile to the spur trail that led to the highway that would take me across the Missouri River the 2 miles to Hermann. The highway had an 8 foot wide paved shoulder with a good margin of safety. No worries here.
There is a second spur trail that will lead to the pedestrian/bicycle lane on the bridge. The spur trail doesn't seem to be used much and is just a bit rough. Your attention to wheel placement is needed here. Once up the final switchback and onto the separated pedestrian section of the bridge travel is easy. Get over the bridge and navigate to the first intersection. A left turn will get you into the downtown area in a block or so. There are a wide variety of shops and places to eat and drink here. If you choose to spend the night there are multiple B&Bs and a campground in the city park. My destination was to the Wurst Haus and a hearty lunch. The Wurst Haus is famous for their deli and selection of German style sausages.
I arrived at the Wurst Haus about 11:30, found a place to park the bike next to the outdoor seating area and went inside. Wow! The smell of smoked sausage in this place is incredible. Right inside the door you'll find a rack with a menus in it. To the right is the deli counter for individual item orders or a bit further into the shop a meal order station.
I ordered the 2-Brstwurst lunch. The brats come on a bed of fresh kraut and the lunch comes with your choice of two sides. I ordered mine with cold slaw and German potato salad. I also ordered one beer because, well, it's German and I'm Chuck.
The lunch was excellent. The brats were flavorful, smoked all the way through and the natural casing was a treat. The sweet/sour style slaw was maybe the best I've had anywhere and the German potato salad was splendid. While eating my lunch a local walked up on the sidewalk to ask about my trip. This isn't the first time I've had this kind of interaction with locals on this trail. After I finished my lunch and was leaving two women that work at the bank across the street and were having lunch also wanted to talk. It is amazing how most of the communities along the Katy embrace the trail and it's users. Certainly not something I'm use to at home. It is estimated that the trail brings $29 Million dollars to these communities a year in economic activity and that number is growing. Maybe that has something to do with the interest in trail users.
The trip back across the river was as easy as it was getting to Herman. A ride across the bridge. Down the wide highway shoulder and down a couple of spur trails. No problem.
Once back at the McKittrick Trailhead, it was onward to the east and my quarters for the night.
Back closer to the river meant that I was also closer to Louis & Clark history markers. These were always interesting to read and brought back memories of enjoying Stephen Ambrose book Undaunted Courage about the Corps of Discovery. These markers also offered a place to sit and enjoy the place. At this particular marker I sat and just enjoyed being there and the dead quiet. I really need those kinds of diversions.
Before long I was at my room for the night, the Happy Apple Biker Bunkhouse.
The bunkhouse is an old home that has been converted to house up to about 20 people. My room had 4 bunks in it and there are 5 other rooms.
It is quite clean and homie. Two complete kitchens, laundry, bathrooms and showers, porches to sit on, a living room, books to read. . . It is just a really pleasant place to stay.
The name of the bunk house comes from another business the family has, Happy Apples. They manufacture carmel apples and the refrigerator was stocked with more than enough of them. They're good too!
The accommodations are run on an honor system. The front door is always unlocked unless someone staying there locks it. And payment is made in a envelope left in the Kitchen.
My tent was a little damp from packing it in the heavy fog this morning so after getting settled in my room I hung it outside to dry while taking a hot shower. The whole time I showered I had this happy face smiling at me -
After the shower I got the tent squared away and relaxed until turning in about 9:30.
I hope you enjoyed this installment and will check in again.
They are expensive at $55-60 per tire (plus buying tubes) but in my opinion are worth it for durability and 6000mi longevity. Heck I remember 45 years ago not paying that much for tires for my VW Beetle.
